“A good perfume adapts to the person and to the personality. It must neither precede nor follow the wearer too intensely; it should not emanate imperiously. Thus, it is never unseemly but always delights. It can be breathed from the wrist, or wafted in the air when hair is shaken loose. Modest as well as faithful, it imposes nothing. It lingers but never clings, it is politely perceptible“.
Bon ton rules on perfume are summed up in this thought, that has become the fundamental principle of the understated elegance characterizing, for over two centuries, L’Officine Universelle Buly creations.
The ancient officine was founded in 1803, under the sign of Jean-Vincent Bully, a Parisian perfumer who became famous thanks to his perfumes and scented vinegars and, especially, for the eponimous Vinagre de Toilette. Creams, lotions, soaps, ointments, pastes, powders and fragrances filled the shelves of the first boutique at 67 Rue de Montorgueuil. A historical heritage preserved through hundreds of recipes and formulas, is restored and revived by Ramdane Touhami and Victoire de Taillac, owners of today’s Officine Universelle Buly.
A must see for perfume lovers, the fabulous flagship boutiques offer visitors an immersive journey back in time. Under painted ceilings and lacquers, framed by carved boiseries and polished marbles, gracious cabinets, glass bells and shelves displaying a variety of bottles, vials and jars.
The mesmerising retro romanticism of the setting melts with a chorus of aromas, suspended in a space-time bubble of fragrant nuances. Delicately compelling, a mist of fruits, flowers, spices, woods and resins gently hovers, awakening the imagination on yesteryear atmospheres. The Eau Triple, main purveyors of that magic are the crown jewel of Buly Collection.
The Eau Triple & La douzaine Parfumée
The Eau Triple, water-based fragrant emulsions, are the highest expression of the retro-futuristic approach through which the Brand perpetuates a tradition of excellence and timeless elegance that emanates like an aura, neither preceding nor imposing. The high persistence and sensoriality of an emulsion make the product a true must for summer and for all those who are looking for more delicate and less intrusive perfumes. Furthermore, the alcohol-free formulation allows the product to be sprayed both on the body and the hair. An olfactory exploration that the brand arranges over 12 fragrances, individually available in the wonderful white lacquer vintage-design bottle or in the practical nuancier olfactif, a lovely and refined box-set of ten vials announced by the brand as a “rhythmic and Parisian prelude to your next olfactory strolls“
I immediately appreciated the Eau Triple Tubéreuse du Mexique: a lovely interpretation of that most sensual bloom. A fragrance that enhances the buttery creaminess of Mexican Tuberose, nestling it in the heart of an exotic bouquet of Tahitian gardenia, vanilla and ylang ylang. Delicate fruity and spicy hues boost its sunny and carefree nature, laid upon a base of woods and musk.
From Museum to Perfume
In 2019, Buly partnered with the Louvre Museum in an exceptional artistic project: to bring a masterpiece alive by creating its perfume. Free from compositional bonds, eight famous noses of French perfume tradition convey mastery and emotion in the fragrant conversion of some of the greatest masterpieces. The wonderful Le Louvre Collection counts 8 Eau Triple in Limited Edition: La Grande Odalisque (interpreted by Domitille Michalon-Bertier), La Nymphe au Scorpion (int. Annick Ménardo), Conversation dans un Parc (int. Dorothée Piot), La Victoire de Samothrace (int. Aliénor Massenet), Saint Joseph Charpentier (int. Sidonie Lancesseur), Le Verrou (int. Delphine Lebeau), La Baigneuse (int. Daniela Andrier) and La Vénus de Milo (int. Jean Christophe Hérault).
From the wonderful fragrances of The Louvre Collection, I chose La Victoire de Samothrace and La Nymphe au Scorpion. Two antithetical floral/fruity fragrances that wonderfully capture the spirit, the posture and the expressivenes of the works of art they represent: the former radiant, vivaceous, and sensual, the latter more intimate, elegant and gentle.
La Victoire pours the momentum and fluidity of the winged goddess into a transparent flight of citruses and aldehydes. Nike’s elegance and sensuality are conveyed by rosy hues of magnolia and geranium over a creamy heart of tuberose. The virtuosity of folds and drapes is masterfully represented by Aliénor Massenet through a chiaroscuro that juxtaposes airy jasmine glazes with warm shades of myrrh and woods.
The ethereal grace, fragility and adolescent beauty of Bartolini’s Nymph revive in a bittersweet contrast of pastel hues. Snowy blooms of Jasmine, whose transparency is rendered through an accord of watery florals and light citrus shades, evoke the diaphanous semblance of marble complexion, crossed by tiny veins of bitter almond. Almost to exalt the chaste nudity and innocence of the young girl, a powdery cloud of heliotrope wraps the composition merging into a soft embrace of amber and musk.
Buly creations are available exclusively at their mono-brand boutiques or from the online shop that, together with a fast and efficient delivery service, offers a beautiful service of customization on purchase. The name of the purchaser or recipient can be added to the labels of Eau Triple, drawn by staff trained in the art of calligraphy, or the product can be even accompanied by a truly elegant handwritten missive.
For further information on the history and philosophy of the brand, on the fragrances or to explore the rich catalogue of natural products for beauty and personal care, you are kindly invited to visit L’Officine Universelle Buly official Web Site.